Journeys Afoot in North America
Part I, Early Walks

NextTable of Contents

Chapter 6. A Walk in Quebec

In Chicago the dear left me to go home and make something of herself and what would she do with me in Portland? I got leave to return late to my research job and headed for Canada to walk off some despair.

In Northern Michigan, if the count was right, I walked my longest day ever, thirty-one miles. Across the Soo a man asked in the streets for someone to help drive to Montreal. In Montreal I hoped to see the World's Fair, where my friend had gone while I rambled. However, it was already dismantled. Bus drivers were striking but a horsedrawn carriage offered a lift to the outskirts. Out of a Russian novel, it had deep soft furs for sightseeing lovers. This was my last lift in Quebec as I tramped east.

La Belle Province is indeed beautiful with tall churches and many roadside shrines of Jesus and in the fall, crisp bright-red McIntosh apples. I walked on flowers; they paint fleurs-de-lis to mark the pavement edge. Eight days later in Quebec City I ate rose hips on the grounds of Laval University and wandered among epitaphs in the old English Church. Was so long without a lift a lesson for the years ahead?

When the St. Lawrence Riverway was opened, Chicago, Milwaukee, and Duluth became ocean ports. Wanting a ship back along the route just plodded, I failed in Quebec City but found a Dutch freighter in Montreal, after a train ride. It was a restful cruise then, up the wide river and through the Great Lakes. The Hollanders set a fine table, with thin-sliced cheeses and buttered bread for dessert.

On board, a sailor claimed his wooden shoes were warmer than leather against the steel decks. He wouldn't trade for my moccasins but told me I could get some in Holland, Michigan. At dock in Calumet, Illinois the aloof captain, who'd told me at table that I wouldn't be allowed to walk Dutch roads, shouldered my pack and walked with me to the gangplank.

Back on the university campus there was a stained-glass-windowed shrine where my friend and I had once sat together. Barefoot again, was she?

NextTable of Contents

Copyright (c) B L Foster 1989, 1996
All rights reserved

Email the author...